building your own home part 2

[stevewool]

its me again, just been watching some engineers put up these building on some land a metal frame constuction, so quick and strong too, they will then build brick work so high then galvanize the roof and the sides too, just made me think could it work in the phils

[subseastu]

Wouldn't that make it pretty hot inside with all that metal work?

[lastlid]

Well yeah. I think I posted on that in your part 1 a few weeks back. Chinese are good at it. They can knock these things up so quickly.

[lastlid]

http://www.anotherway.org/2011/07/bu...rt-from-china/

http://quacent.en.made-in-china.com/...use-4597-.html

[webclinician]

It will not be hot because they can be made of bricks. Perhaps thread starter is rich enough to pay for air condition.

question is..can they stand earthquake?

[lastlid]

It will not be hot because they can be made of bricks. Perhaps thread starter is rich enough to pay for air condition.

question is..can they stand earthquake?

This was what my wife's friend's hubby was talking about. Strength of build to withstand an earthquake.

[stevewool]

i am on about just the framework being of metal, the skin and roof will be made from what is there, the speed it went up gave me the idea , yes it will be the cost too,

[grahamw48]

Probably by the time you've got someone to fabricate the frame (and work out how to attach stuff to it) it will be just as quick and cheap to get blockwork put up...which of course has a lot of steel rebar running through it anyway.

I've got a pic somewhere of the giant pile of steel needed for the construction of my building.
I'll try to find it.

I know it wasn't cheap.

[Steve.r]

The way they make the upright structures with poured concrete with re-bars running through it are probably the best way of doing it there Steve. My friend Georg had his house made in this way, but made sure he had 3/4" re-bar running through all main structures for added strength. If you look at poorly constructed houses in Phils, you will see smaller diameter re-bar used.

[lastlid]

The way they make the upright structures with poured concrete with re-bars running through it are probably the best way of doing it there Steve. My friend Georg had his house made in this way, but made sure he had 3/4" re-bar running through all main structures for added strength. If you look at poorly constructed houses in Phils, you will see smaller diameter re-bar used.

Thats exactly what my wife's friends hubby said the other night.

[lastlid]

What about this sort of thing but on a smaller scale? Quick to put up and sturdy too.

"It is also said to have the capacity to withstand an earthquake that measures up to 9 on the Richter Magnitude Scale"

Read more: 200 Chinese Workers Erect a 30 Storey Prefabricated Hotel in Just 15 Days (VIDEO) | Inhabitat - Sustainable Design Innovation, Eco Architecture, Green Building

http://inhabitat.com/200-chinese-wor...15-days-video/

[subseastu]

I seem to remember a few years ago there a problem with the type of cement used reacting with the re-bar? Causes a concrete cancer, for want of a better term which rusts the re-bars. Over time the re-bars basically become ineffective. Don't know if this is true or not but I was told about it by some expats I knew in Olongapo.

[grahamw48]

Hopefully that will have been put right by now, but it does illustrate the importance of doing a lot of research before putting plans into reality.

[Terpe]

There's many horror stories about the size and the quality of re-bar and about the type, quality and mix of mortor and concrete.
If anyone is thinking of building their own and has no experience of construction there's so many opportunities to get ripped-off and also have a house which is not safe.
Nearly all the materials used will have a minimum specification as 'fit for purpose'

Even the so-called tin roof. You can buy cheap with very short life cycle and you can buy more expensive thicker longer lasting low maintenance, but there is a cost and someone had better know how to verify what's being delivered and then to verify what's actually being installed.

Caveat emptor!

[lastlid]

There's many horror stories about the size and the quality of re-bar and about the type, quality and mix of mortor and concrete.
If anyone is thinking of building their own and has no experience of construction there's so many opportunities to get ripped-off and also have a house which is not safe.
Nearly all the materials used will have a minimum specification as 'fit for purpose'

Even the so-called tin roof. You can buy cheap with very short life cycle and you can buy more expensive thicker longer lasting low maintenance, but there is a cost and someone had better know how to verify what's being delivered and then to verify what's actually being installed.

Caveat emptor!

Sounds like buying drilling tubulars.

[grahamw48]

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(The low wall at the front is a temporary one...actually the original boundary wall).

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[lastlid]

I seem to remember a few years ago there a problem with the type of cement used reacting with the re-bar? Causes a concrete cancer, for want of a better term which rusts the re-bars. Over time the re-bars basically become ineffective. Don't know if this is true or not but I was told about it by some expats I knew in Olongapo.

"Because rebar is susceptible to rust -- which can cause expansion and, in turn, cracks -- it must be installed at the correct depth. If it is too close to the surface of the concrete, water may be able to reach it, causing corrosion and rust. The concrete itself is usually enough to keep moisture from reaching the rebar, but in certain situations -- such as locations close to salt water or on bridges -- it is necessary to use polymer coated rebar that resists rust. This type of rebar is more expensive than common steel rebar, but in the long run it can save the builder repair and reconstruction costs."

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-rebar.htm

It makes sense to use coated / protected re-bar so that it doesnt rust / degrade.

Also do they do a tougher grade, I wonder?

[lastlid]

"Common rebar is made of unfinished tempered steel, making it susceptible to rusting. Normally the concrete cover is able to provide a pH value higher than 12 avoiding the corrosion reaction. Too little concrete cover can compromise this guard through carbonation from the surface. Too much concrete cover can cause bigger crack widths which also compromises the local guard. As rust takes up greater volume than the steel from which it was formed, it causes severe internal pressure on the surrounding concrete, leading to cracking, spalling, and ultimately, structural failure. This is a particular problem where the concrete is exposed to salt water, as in bridges built in areas where salt is applied to roadways in winter, or in marine applications. Epoxy-coated, galvanized or stainless steel rebar may be employed in these situations at greater initial expense, but significantly lower expense over the service life of the project. Especially Epoxy-coated have to be installed with great care, because even little cracks and failures in the coating can lead to intensified local chemical reactions not visible at the surface.

Fibre-reinforced polymer rebar is now also being used in high-corrosion environments. It is available in many forms, from spirals for reinforcing columns, to the common rod, to meshes and many other forms. Most commercially available rebar are made from unidirectional glass fibre reinforced thermo set resins."

http://www.swastikentech.com/what_is_rebar.php

[grahamw48]

Haha...lots of great (and more expensive) products around, but after sitting for hours, days and months observing the various sub-projects that went into the building of the new Hong Kong airport, I can tell you that many thousands of tons of rusty re-bar was used, and I didn't notice much 'fancy' coated stuff.

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Coincidentally, this 'cut and cover' tunnel was built using pre-fabricated steel frames, which were then filled with concrete. Probably a rather larger budget than Steve's though.
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