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Thread: Our construction project in the Philippines

  1. #61
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    Dunno about the amps / voltage things Imagine but the fact that it has a UK Spec 13 amp plug on it might be cos the Aussies are selling the welder to Singapore & Malaysia which being common sense countries have UK plugs.

    Have you tried contacting the manufacturer ?


  2. #62
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    How can a 20A welder have a 13A supply? Does it have some kind of battery reserve?


  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dedworth View Post
    Dunno about the amps / voltage things Imagine but the fact that it has a UK Spec 13 amp plug on it might be cos the Aussies are selling the welder to Singapore & Malaysia which being common sense countries have UK plugs.

    Have you tried contacting the manufacturer ?
    Our archtect, who helps us as he lives in Cagayan where the supplier is, spoke to them on my behalf. I had relayed to him that they should contact the manufacturer for advice. Now I don't know if they have, but we can't have a delay by returning the welder to them just now, for exchange, but merchant said they will take full responsibility for upgrading to a higher fuse. They suggest 20 amp, if the welder breaks because of this. They will replace or exchange. I've just been reading the manual, and the makers have email address so I'll try to contact myself that way and see what they say


  4. #64
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    I think you need to share more info Stewart...
    I'm not an electrician.
    I do have a MIG welder with max output at 135 amps which works very happily from my domestic supply with a 13 a fused plug. It's good for steel up to 5mm thick max (although I've not welded 5mm thickness so far usually around 4mm max)

    Output current on a welder is NOT equal to the input current.
    A simple transformer-style welding unit converts the input voltage and current electricity into a high current and low voltage supply.

    Just in simple terms remember that Power(Watts) = Current(Amps) x Voltage(Volts).

    It's important to check the output ratings for different duty cycles and rest times. Just as example 60% means welding time is 6 minutes and rest time is 4 minutes.

    Do you have a MIG welder or Stick (Arc) welder?
    MIG welders don't generally draw as much power as most Arcs welders.

    Here in UK that 135 amps is just about on the limit for plugging into domestic supply.

    Just trying to help......


  5. #65
    Trusted Member stevewool's Avatar
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    Peter what do you have to weld around the house, you are not making knives forks and spoons are you


  6. #66
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    Sheriel from Leyte

    Stewart, I would have thought it was A Stick Welder, I saw many being used on Construction Sites in the Philippines. Welding using coated electrodes,1.5,2.00,2.5,3.00cm electrodes and even larger, the Fuse if in UK, we would safely upgrade fuse by wrapping fuse wire round blown fuse, maybe 20,30 amps,wire,and we have welded safely allday without damaging the welder,or supply, many times, on site and in workshops, I personally am a coded welder,is fuse wire available in hardware shops in the Philippines. Perhaps someone will know ......


  7. #67
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    Sheriel from Leyte

    Stewart, A cigweld ARC, it has to be a stick welder, just checked with a friend here, try the Fuse Wire and don't look at ark, you will not enjoy ARC eyes, it can be painful and in some cases result in Hospital Admission.

    I saw Filipina Ladies in Cebu welding a steel Frame building [Mall of Asia] using stick welders, I met one on several occasions socially, she was an excellent welder, we have female welders here also, I have worked with them.

    Good luck in sourcing the fuse wire, and good luck with your Project, I am green with envy, one day we might follow, we will see.


  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheriel View Post
    Stewart, A cigweld ARC, it has to be a stick welder, just checked with a friend here, try the Fuse Wire and don't look at ark, you will not enjoy ARC eyes, it can be painful and in some cases result in Hospital Admission.

    I saw Filipina Ladies in Cebu welding a steel Frame building [Mall of Asia] using stick welders,i met one on several occasions socially, she was an excellent welder, we have female welders here also, I have worked with them.

    Good luck in sourcing the fuse wire, and good luck with your Project, I am green with envy, one day we might follow, we will see.
    Thanks Sheriel.

    Yes, its also a stick welder or rod welder I think it's called, that is ARC as I understand,, and this is how it is being used by my steel men. It is also capable of TIG welding if connected to gas bottle


  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheriel View Post
    Stewart, I would have thought it was A Stick Welder, I saw many being used on Construction Sites in the Philippines, Weding using coated electrodes, 1.5,2.00,2.5,3.00cm electrodes and even larger, the Fuse if in UK, we would safely upgrade fuse by wrapping fuse wire round blown fuse,maybe 20,30 amps,wire,and we have welded safely all day without damaging the welder, or supply, many times, on site and in workshops, I personally am a coded welder. Is fuse wire available in hardware shops in the Philippines? Perhaps someone will know ......
    Yes, electrode coated sticks

    Ok thanks for info about fuse, i was worried a 20 amp fuse might make it dangerous to user.

    There is fuse wire here 15 and 20 amp but it is unlike what I can get in UK, here it is very thick diameter, I think probably fore a main fuse box rather than for appliances.

    What I have found is 15 amp glass fuses for 220 volts, I think I can get 20amp the same they are slightly longer than the uk 13 amp fuse, so i have adapted the plug by cutting out some of the internal plastic which stops the fuse moving at each end, so now the longer fuse fits, we will try this when the next 13 amp fuse blows, then if the 15 amp blows too then upgrade to 20amp fuse


  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terpe View Post
    I think you need to share more info Stewart...
    I'm not an electrician.
    I do have a MIG welder with max output at 135 amps which works very happily from my domestic supply with a 13 a fused plug. It's good for steel up to 5mm thick max (although I've not welded 5mm thickness so far usually around 4mm max)

    Output current on a welder is NOT equal to the input current.
    A simple transformer-style welding unit converts the input voltage and current electricity into a high current and low voltage supply.

    Just in simple terms remember that Power(Watts) = Current(Amps) x Voltage(Volts).

    It's important to check the output ratings for different duty cycles and rest times. Just as example 60% means welding time is 6 minutes and rest time is 4 minutes.

    Do you have a MIG welder or Stick (Arc) welder?
    MIG welders don't generally draw as much power as most Arcs welders.

    Here in UK that 135 amps is just about on the limit for plugging into domestic supply.

    Just trying to help......
    Thanks Peter, it is arc a stick welder, it is 20amp, equivalent to 30 amp welder as it has inverter, so uses less supply power


  11. #71
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    Sheriel from Leyte

    Good morning in the Philippines, we are happy to be of assistance to you good luck from here.


  12. #72
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    Personally I'd be very wary about 'changing-up' the fused plug rating.
    To go with a 20amp fuse I'd want to be very sure that the supply circuit (wires in the wall) is capable of handling the potential total power being pulled.

    Is it the 170 model or the 130 model?

    The 130 amp version should be perfectly fine with a 10amp fuse.
    The 170 am version should be fine with a 15amp fuse

    Stewart what are to trying to weld ? Maybe you're just trying to pull too much power.

    Try welding at a lower current and see if that helps.

    Is you input voltage OK? If it's dropping below 200 that might cause problems too.

    Be cautious with 'power-pulling' to avoid damage to supply circuits or even worse damage to the inverter circuits.


  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terpe View Post
    Personally I'd be very wary about 'changing-up' the fused plug rating.
    To go with a 20amp fuse I'd want to be very sure that the supply circuit (wires in the wall) is capable of handling the potential total power being pulled.

    Is it the 170 model or the 130 model?

    The 130 amp version should be perfectly fine with a 10amp fuse.
    The 170 am version should be fine with a 15amp fuse

    Stewart what are to trying to weld ? Maybe you're just trying to pull too much power.

    Try welding at a lower current and see if that helps.

    Is you input voltage OK? If it's dropping below 200 that might cause problems too.

    Be cautious with 'power-pulling' to avoid damage to supply circuits or even worse damage to the inverter circuits.
    130 model, steel rebar is being welded and a little on steel decking to pin them together not all the way on the seams, the thickest rebar is 20ml then 16ml and 10ml,

    the welder can run ok for 4 or 5 days then blows the fuse, other times 1 day or 2 or 3,

    as the welder plug wires are neutral , live and earth , I have made sure the 2 pin supply live is inline with the welders live, just incase that might be a problem,
    I don't know what current setting they are using, the 2 steel men who are experienced welders I have just thought they should know what settings to use, well I hope they do

    power supply here is renowned for fluctuation and this is what the supplier said, may be the cause and suggested a 20amp fuse , they were asked and they agreed to take responsibility if damage is done and will replace the unit,


  14. #74
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    We get a break this weekend, our forman will take the welder to be exchanged for a replacement,
    meanwhile the project is growing fast, keeps me busy too, we employ 23 men on the site, I have many trips
    banking and buying materials, wages etc to calculate, Lolita supplies food and snacks, drinks, and she makes a few peso from that. Every little helps. The original estimated 5 months start to completion, that has shrunk to start to finish 3 months.



    one more floor to go after this, enginner inspecter says the building is strong and we could if we want add at least 2 more floors, but then we would need an elevator


  15. #75
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    Looking good Stewart ......
    BTW love the scaffold


  16. #76
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    Stewart.. What are the dimensions of your posts and beams,(rebar plan) ,,,,size and quantity of re bar and ties...Also the size of re bar and quantity of 16mm matting.
    If your plan is fully permitted then everything will be fine...If you want to go higher then you should have allowed for that in original plan.. Your municipal engineer can advise you..
    Much depends on if your 1st floor slab is reinforced concrete etc etc.
    All our rebar tires were tie wire.. Not sure why you need welder??


  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred View Post
    Stewart.. What are the dimensions of your posts and beams,the size and quantity of re bar and ties...Also the size of re bar and quantity of 16mm matting.
    If your plan is fully permitted then everything will be fine...If you want to go higher then you should have allowed for that in original plan.. Your municipal engineer can advise you..
    Much depends on if your 1st floor slab is reinforced concrete etc etc.
    To be honest, I don't know the posts and beam dimensions, it was the Municipal Engineer who said it's strong for - and ready to extend to - 2 more floors. Permit is ready for 2 more floors.

    The rebar for beams and posts and floor decking is 20 mm, there is 16 mm for vertical between hollow blocks and horizontal is 10 mm. Right now, without checking my receipts, I can't remember the quantities to date. Still more to get for the next floor too


  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terpe View Post
    Looking good Stewart ......
    BTW love the scaffold
    Nothing but the best health and safety observed coco lumber, well expensive too, I'm sure metal scaffolding would be cheaper if it could be got here


  19. #79
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    To give you a rough idea.. Our units are good for 3/4 floors.. Posts 12 pcs 16mm,tied with 10 m rebar with 16 mm matting.. Like this..Finished posts are 40X40.


    Any worries,just check with municipal engineer...


  20. #80
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    Sheriel from Leyte

    Thank you for the photos of your new build project Stewart - exciting for you both. Look out Mr Tan, in the Philippines, next a Mall of Asia. Good luck Stewart, I hope the welder was OK, and didn't fuse your neighbours' supply. Change the welder, you say - is it troublesome?


  21. #81
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    Looking forward to seeing the finished product Stewart, you must be so excited. I bet you didn't think that your life in the Philippines would be this busy!


  22. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred View Post
    To give you a rough idea.. Our units are good for 3/4 floors.. Posts 12 pcs 16mm,tied with 10 m rebar with 16 mm matting.. Like this..Finished posts are 40X40.
    Any worries,just check with municipal engineer...
    I will correct some of my above info,,
    posts 20mm rebar, beams 20mm rebar, floor decking with double layer 2way 10mm rebar and concrete,
    diameter of posts 40 x 40.tie wire size 16,

    matting at base of post 20mm,

    hollow block walls class A blocks, rebar vertical 12mm ,,, horizontal 10 mm

    this is one rebar post coming up through the roof of the basement.

    and the guy with yellow shirt is our municipal engineer


  23. #83
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    Just to give some kind of visual of the size and make up of the rebar posts and matting:-




  24. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheriel View Post
    Thank you for the photos of your new build project Stewart - exciting for you both. Look out Mr Tan, in the Philippines, next a Mall of Asia. Good luck Stewart, I hope the welder was OK, and didn't fuse the your neighbours' supply. Change the welder you say - is it troublesome?
    Yes, we tried 15 and 20 amp fuses, but still blows the fuse, supplier says if fuse is blowing then the machine must be faulty, they will exchange for the same model this weekend,

    This welder gives no problems to neighbours and means we don't have to pay for a street transformer or direct connection to a transformer


  25. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Parnham View Post
    Looking forward to seeing the finished product Stewart, you must be so excited. I bet you didn't think that your life in the Philippines would be this busy!
    You know, I had this idea in my head that I was retired in Philippines When we open our roof top cafe looks like I'll be working full time there. The project will finish July, but have to go to Manila in September, so I won't open the cafe until xmas or new year, but the second floor office spaces should be rented out before then. Already we have a guy wants to rent ground floor for a convenience store,

    He wants a 5 year contract, and will pay and install his own air con and floor tiles, will furnish all at his expenses, but he is offering lower than I had visualised. I wanted top 35 thou a month, with a bottom line of 30 thou, he wishes to rent for 20 thou taking into account what he will do at his expense, I haven't settled the price yet. Time to calculate and get advice. Maybe 25 thou would be good. After all, there's the next floor up to rent too, and our roof top cafe.


  26. #86
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    Nice project Stewart......glad to learn you're wife's keeping you busy.

    Life is good...enjoy


  27. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terpe View Post
    Nice project Stewart......glad to learn you're wife's keeping you busy.

    Life is good...enjoy
    I never thought I would be this busy


  28. #88
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    Stewart.. If the Municipal engineer produced the plans then he will be the most qualified to advise about extra floors etc.. That`s his job.
    Looks as though you have used less rebar than us but as its 20mm grade perhaps that compensates for your particular design??
    I`m no engineer and cannot advise on structural integrity.
    I doubt very much that a municipal engineer will sign anything substandard or not issue you future permits to go upwards one day...(if initial plans allow)
    Cheers,
    Fred.


  29. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by imagine View Post
    you know i had this idea in my head that i was retired in philippines, when we open our roof top caffe looks like il be working full time there, the project will finish july, but have to go to manila in september so i wont open the caffe untill xmas or new year, but the second floor office spaces should be rented out before then, already we have a guy wants to rent ground floor for a convenience store,
    he wants 5 year contract, and will pay and install his own air con and floor tiles ,will furnish all at his expense, but he is offering lower than i had visualised, i wanted top 35 thou a month, with a bottom line of 30 thou, he wishes to rent for 20 thou taking into account what he will do at his expense, i havent settled the price yet, time to calculate and get advise, maybe 25 thou would be good,after all theres the next floor up to rent too, and our roof top caffe
    If you can get 25k a month i would go for it
    How much per sqm does land in your street cost?

    I noticed that the big bosses are the only ones wearing hard hats in the pictures


  30. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred View Post
    Stewart.. If the Municipal engineer produced the plans then he will be the most qualified to advise about extra floors etc.. That`s his job.
    Looks as though you have used less rebar than us but as its 20mm grade perhaps that compensates for your particular design??
    I`m no engineer and cannot advise on structural integrity.
    I doubt very much that a municipal engineer will sign anything substandard or not issue you future permits to go upwards one day...(if initial plans allow)
    Cheers,
    Fred.
    Also our architect has great experience in large strong buildings, he was also one of the architects for the new Laguindingan Airport. Our Municipal Engineer was very impressed with the structure and strength of the building.

    I'm no engineer myself, but having worked in the building trade all my life, I am confident in the work and design and structure of our building. I have seen here how different construction can be compared to UK. I've seen many poor standard buildings, but I'm getting exactly what I required from all those involved, at a higher initial cost but I know our building will stand the test of time.

    Yes, I see from your photos the design and size of rebar differ, but though your posts seem closer together its possible overall strength of the buildings are the same,

    The land our posts are set is different too, which may account for any differences


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